Lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

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lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

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Any cancellation must be approved prior to shipping.Here you will find information on various LT1's, LS1's, and Vortec Truck engines I have installed or helped to install in many different vehicles. Please ask any questions you may have, I try to answer everyone's questions. If you have a stock truck with a security problem I can also take care of that with this service. The system was also on the 5.

I can disable this system to prevent oil consumption, and prevent future lifter failure. I have information on this page about mechanical repair if you've already had a failure. Click on the link for more info on this service. Please do not skip this page, even if you are only looking for programming. Check out my Vortec Swap. In I installed an 01 Vortec cubic inch fuel injected Big Block Chevy with custom DIY closed loop fuel injection system and distributor-less ignition.

I installed a ZZ cam. Two weeks later a piston fell apart and the sent a rod out the oil pan and is now out of the truck, here's some pictures of the destruction. Here's the Vortec 6. Megasquirt controlling fuel and spark, same as the above.

I have now come across a Vortec 5. Click Vortec 5. I test ran the engine on an engine stand using Ethanol made from a moonshine still. I used Megasquirt for fuel and ignition control. Vortec 5. All ignition and fuel control comes from Megasquirt II. This was my very first fuel injected swap. The LT1 and the car are now gone, bu t I' ve left all the information!!

Included on this page is the VATS page, showing how to byp ass GM's anti-theft system used in many early 90's vehicles.

My '67 Chevy Page has a little info about my pickup. I've done disc brake and 5 lug conversion. Links includes other sites I found useful during my LT1 swap. If you have any questions or comments about the website or maybe your own engine swap, please E-Mail me!You can definitely wire everything yourself, but you need the proper wiring diagrams along with alot of patience.

If you can get a copy of the Factory Service Manual covering the donor car, it will be a big help. I did pretty much what you are doing with some help from the previous ownerand it just takes some time and investigation.

On my car the fans and the fuel pump are activated by a ground wire coming from the PCM. You just need to figure out which wires these are and use them to activate relays it's relatively easy to wire a relay so that it sends out power based on a negative signal. I used a Painless fuse block for my constant hot and ignition hot PCM wires, but you could conceivably use wires from your Datsun if you're really hurtng for cash.

As Bart and Danno have stated it's possible to use the harness you already have, I made the statement about buying a new complete harness based on your repeated statement about only connecting 5 wires and everything works. With your harness as hacked up as you make it sound this is not going to happen.

It should be possible to use the Datsun fuel pump relay, you just need to figure out which PCM connector controls that relay, if you want the PCM to energize the pump before the engine fires, and connect it up, you'll also want to use an oil pressure switch that also closes the same relay to keep the motor running once the PCM opens it's circuit.

The PCM will only run the pump for a couple seconds when the ignition is first turned on, this primes the fuel system before cranking. Edit: I suppose you could also just have the ignition switch close the fuel pump relay and the pump run while the switch is on. The one drawback to this is if a fuel line is cut and the engine dies the pump will continue to run dumping fuel everywhere causing a major fire hazard. An oil pressure switch prevents this by opening the relay when the oil pressure drops shutting off the pump.

If you interested I have several photos that may help. I installed the PCM under my dash. Once you have the correct information its easy. You need to know the details of each wire. I have lots of data that might help, start with the helms manual on your car, it will show you every pin on the PCM and what the wire does. You need a relay when you want to run a something that takes a lot of current. Like your headlights or fuel pump. The PCM is a switch and it cant take much current so you have it close a small current relay that will than close and allow a lot of current to flow to the head lights or fuel pump etc Do you know how to read a wiring diagram?

I took a Z diagram and have change it to match my Z with a 95 LT It would help you a lot. Also Its not a couple hour job for a beginner to figure all this out. I have many, many hours getting it right and doing a lot of tweaking to suit my fussiness. The injectors do not require a relay but you want to put a fuse on the power feed ciruit to protect the PCM in case of a short.

This is why I suggested you get the underhood fuse box or a new harness from a Caprice that includes it. All the fuses and relays are there with the correct connections.

I ordered a Painless wiring harness for my 94 LT1 install. The harness only came with one knock sensor connector. I had a check engine light on for some time before I figured out why.

It kept throwing a code for the knock sensor circuit. I ran freescan which showed me that it was only running default advance of the timing and no more because of the fault code.

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Something like 17 but depending on rpm. I checked Alldata and found that the knock sensor circuit must have a I believe 5 ohm resistance in the circuit. If the pcm senses below 3 ohm or above 5 ohm it sets a knock sensor code and defaults to programmed timing advance.That also means that you need an electronic control unit.

If you are using an aftermarket controller, carbureted LS, or one of the new LT-series engines, or if you simply want better control of your automatic transmission, you need a separate controller.

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Yes, you read that correctly, the LT-series engine ECM does not have transmission controls built in, it is a separate controller. A laptop is required for tuning the controller. Painless Performance has the solution for all of these situations, it is called Perfect Torc.

Not only does it give you tuning control of the transmission, including shift timing and firmness, but also comes with pushbuttons for paddle-shifting as well. For the most basic installation, there are only four wires to connect: ignition handles all power functionstwo grounds, and the TPS sensor input.

The rest of the wires are secondary controls, including: button-shift, speedometer output, and a 5-volt TPS power feed for vehicles that require a stand-alone TPS unit carbureted engines. The other wires are all bundled together in two plugs that plug directly into the ports on the transmission. The installation is quite simple.

Under the vehicle, route the transmission harness to the passenger side of the transmission case. Plug the large round plug into the port on the shelf of the case. There is a second two-wire plug that connects to the rear speed sensor port.

lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

Make sure that the wires are routed away from the exhaust and driveshaft. The main harness is long enough to reach the firewall and into the vehicle for most cars and trucks. You could also run the harness through the floor, just be sure to use a grommet to protect the wires from chaffing.

lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

This harness has 3 separate molex connectors. The controller itself should be mounted inside the vehicle, the glovebox or center console are great locations because the controller has a diagnostic and tuning function for on-the-fly tests and tuning. The controller harness has eight wires in one molex connector. These are the power, grounds, sensors and shift button wires.Complete with the wiring for emissions and VSS.

We also have a device that will allow you to delete the VSS circuit. The device replicates a signal to the computer; the computer still thinks its receiving the correct pulse. The main difference between the 4L60 and the 4L60E is the valve body. What sets them apart is the Ewhich stands for electronic valve body. With a SSW harness you have diagnostic capability ALDLspark control and all the correct power and ground connections required to run correctly.

lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

For special requests: Contact SSW. You will find a creation of fuel injection known as Throttle Body Injection. This injection system in many opinions, to be the most reliable and self sustain design ever.

Lasting 10 years makes this the longest and most successful engine and fuel injection design, ever to come from GM. The variation of sizes range from 4. Pick your poison of any, check you power to weight ration and enjoy a reliable engine in any size, from this genre.

The fuel metering is controlled by a basic Speed Density operation.

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The MAP sensor will adjust timing and fuel depending on load conditions, based on internal vacuum pressures. The MAP sensor will adjust accordingly — based on altitude and work performed.There should be enough here to get you going in the right direction. Some of these I have pictures of completed harnesses I have modified for easy installation.

I have a lot of pictures so please be patient and let them load.

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If you find this information useful, or have suggestion on something to add, let me knowI will try to get it done. My goal is to help the hobbyist to be able to complete a harness transformation by them self.

I would only hope you send the PCM to me when it comes time for it. I do not charge for ANY information. Sample schematic similar to what you may see in the following pages. This may help you to learn how to read the schematics. For parts list for fuse block, obd2 diagnostic port, and wiring instructions, click here!

Typical 'External' Connections This is so the PCM can remember learned information about the engine over time. This includes idle control, fuel trims, and transmission adapts. This is what 'powers up' the PCM. Even the COIL wire on some of those went dead when cranking. After cranking, power was restored to the coil through a resistor, lowering voltage to 6 volts.

The signal is only present for two seconds at key on. Fuel pump operation resumes when cranking over. So, if there is a condition where there is a bad crank sensor, fuel pump will come on, turn off, and will not turn on when cranking. However, the signal needed is opposite how you're brake lights work. If you vehicle was equipped with a lockup trans to begin with, you probably already have the proper normally closed switch mounted by your brake light switch.

If you do not, you can use a relay to perform the same thing. There are then a normally open leg and a normally closed leg on the relay and a supply. PCM can be programmed to match tire size and axle ratio for you're swap, so this signal is calibrated. The stock LS tach signal is 4 cylinder type signal. This can be programmed as 4, 6, or 8 cylinder signal. How to wire up a fan relay Relay coil draws less then 1 amp.

Make sure the ground for the cooling fan is a good one, also ensure there is a good ground from the battery - side to the frame.By TimzJune 10, in Ignition and Electrical. Hey LT1 guys. I think I have gotten my wiring for the PCM figured. I just to make sure that I'm on the right track. It is from a 94 Z28 with T Plug everything in and it will fire.

Also make sure your switched 12V power leads have 12Volts while cranking not just in key on position. I think those are the only wires that I have actually identified as being needed apart from gauges and fluff stuff. Problem is don't know where to start. The wiring. You have 3 options. Other than that, follow the JTR book. If you are going to put that motor in your car, get that factory service manual and study it for a couple of weekends befor you start.

Good luck, Mark. Black 28 and 29 are 5V reference voltages sent to your sensors you need them. Blue 20 service enable is part of the ALDL link and you need it to reprogram your computer. If your not using a charcoal canister you dont need Blue I'm keeping red 7,10,11 black 8 and blue 6 on my car but you dont need them.

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I have the strong feeling that some others have completed the stock wiring adaptation of the LT1 to the Z. I am also certain it was a big job. Would someone who has successfully rebopped the stock LT1 wiring harness be willing to share the fruits of the hard work as a valid starting point for others like myself? A couple of above posts are just great and are indicative of lots of available talent.

Is the wiring the same for the Corvette computer? Any web sites that mite help. It should not be exactly the same, because the LT1 Vette has a seperate, master computer. As for the PCM wiring itself, it should probably be the same. Looking at Tunercat. If you need a for sure answer, www. Is there any one else that knows if the Lt1 edit will work with the Vettes computer. I only got the main computer with my swap. This unit must be programed before being placed in service. The only thing I have to do to make them work together is to move a couple of wires since the accessories are mounted on the wrong sides of the engine.

Some reprogramming will be in order too.


Lt1 wiring diagram vss completed

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